Please note that not all of these are corrections, but clarifications to help you have a better knitting experience!
- P.36, Sidebar: For an invisible join to begin working in rounds, choose from . . .
- P.37, add to the "Note" under Making the Brim: The Photos D-F demonstrate how to make the brim attached to the hat. For demonstration purposes, only the ribbing of the hat is shown in the photo.
- P.37, Step 5 begins with a RS row.
- Row 1 (WS): P12 (14, 16).
- Row 2 (RS): K2, M1, pm, k8 (10, 12), pm, M1, k2 (photo E). Pick up and knit next 2 sts from CO row.
- Row 3 (WS): Purl across, then pick up and purl 2 sts from CO row.
- Row 4: K to marker, M1, slip marker, k8 (10, 12) center sts, slip marker, M1, k to end.
- Pick up and knit 2 sts from CO row.
- Row 5: Purl across, then pick up and purl 2 sts from CO row.
- Step 6 begins with a RS row.
- P.38, Project Summary: 7th line: any "Fibonacci" row, such as 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, etc.
- P.41, Step 5, beginning with 3rd paragraph: Continue from * across until 10 sts (each side) have been bound off. Slip st from right needle onto front needle and drop yarn. Join new yarn the same color as sts on back needle. Continuing on the back needle only with new yarn, bind off 4 sts from back needle. Slip st from right needle onto back needle; break yarn. Slip st from front needle to right needle. With yarn used for 3-needle bind off and on front needle only, bind off 4 sts. Working from both left-hand needles, continuing working 3-needle bind off(photo D) until all sts have been bound off. Cut yarn and bring tail thought last st. Pull tightly to close.Using crochet hook, knot and separate yarn ends along Wristlet as for Scarf, but bring both ends to outside.
- P. 44, Step 5: Photo E shows weaving the I-cord through holes of the hat, and photo F shows leaving lengths of the I-cord hanging on the outside.
- At end of step 5, add: Tack I-cord near holes on inside if desired to keep it from moving.
- P.45, step 5, 4th line: change "as for cylinder" to "one end".
- P.46, second item of "You will need": Scraps or small amounts of 7 different medium- to worsted-weight novelty yarns, including an eyelash yarn
- P.47, Step 1, Photo A shows a completed leaf.
- Steps 2 and 3 should be switched, making it so that step 2 is step 3, and step 3 is step 2. That also means that the labels and references for some of the photos should be changed: Photo B is D. photo C is B, and photo D is C.
- The beginning of the new Step 3 should read: Step 3: Knit sl st around edge (photo D): With contrast yarn and smaller dpn, pick up and knit 1 st in last st fastened off. Pick up and k . . .
- P.48, first line: new picked-up st until entire piece . . .
- Step 4, Photo E shows the placement of the pieces.
- Step 5, 3rd line: an odd number of sts (at least 5), along one . . .
- Row 2: the asterisks should be moved before the k1 to read "P1, *k1 tbl . . ."
- Step 6, add to the end of the paragraph: Cut yarn leaving a tail. Thread this tail through the last st on hook.
- P.49, Step 7, 3rd line, change step 3 to step 2.
- Photo F shows what it looks like after a row of sc is worked around the entire edge.
- Step 8, Photo H is for after Row 1 is finished and turned, ready for row 2.
- P.52, Step 1: At end of Row 5, add Mark this row as WS.
- Step 3, Row 40 (RS): *K1, (yo twice), rep from * to last st, k1. (100 sts)
- Row 41, 34 sts at end of row.
- P.53, Step 6, Row 80: K1, *k2tog, yo, rep from * to last st, k1.
- Step 7, Row 99: K1, p to last st, k1.
- Row 102: *K1, (yo twice), rep from * to last st, k1. (100 sts)
- Row 103: 67 sts instead of 66.
- Row 104: K2tog, *p2tog, rep from * . . .
- Step 9, Row 120: K4, *p3, k4, rep from * . . . .
- Row 122: P4, *k3, p4, rep from * . .
- Step 12, 4th line: Measure 17" down from each end for sleeves
- in Tips, Russian join reads better as:
There's a great technique called the Russian Join for connecting ends when a new ball of yarn is incorporated into a project. To employ this technique, thread needle onto one end of yarn, leaving a small loop. Sew the end back into itself. Thread needle onto end of other yarn, go through first yarn loop and sew this end back into itself. Trim loose ends.
- P.55 , beginning with Step 1, Row 6, 2nd paragraph:
Work even on 13 sts until Ear Flap meas approx 3" (7.5cm) from beg, ending with a RS row (photo B). Cut yarn and place these 13 sts on a holder.
Work another Ear Flap to match, ending with a RS row. Place sts of second Ear Flap on circular needle. Turn work.
Step 2 Begin Body of Hat:
With Circular needle and MC, using cable cast on, CO 20 (24) sts onto LH needle for back of Hat.
Turn work. Holding first Ear Flap with RS facing you, knit across 13 sts. Turn work and using cable cast on, CO 14 (16) sts . . . .
- P.58, Making the Crystal Ring, Step 1 should say to make 2.
- p.59, Step 4: At end of the paragraph, add Repeat for other end.
- P.61, in Disco Purse gauge info in Extras, it should have (2.5cm) listed after 4 sts = 1", and it should say this is worked with one strand of each of C and D held together.
- P.62, Finishing the Shrug, first sentence should read: Turn Shrug so V is at top and fold down in half. Sew . . .
- P.62, Step 1, Rep Rib round is more user friendly to read: Rep Rib Round until piece measures 7-3/4 (8, 8-1/4)"[19.75 (20.25, 21)cm].
- Step 2, Row 1 should be WS.
- P.65, In extras, Row 1 of Rib Pattern Stitch is a RS row.
- The instructions for the Left Front is actually for Right Front, and Right Front is for Left Front. So, the Right Front is worked first.
- Step 3 is easier to understand as follows:
. . . Work in rib patt st, increasing 1 st at the right side edge on every row (beg of RS rows and end of WS rows) 24 (25, 26) times, working new sts into patt. (35, 39, 43 sts)
- Step 5: For Left Front, work as for Right Front, working all incs and decs at left side of piece (end of RS rows, beg of WS rows) (photo A).
- P.66, Step 7: Sew shoulder and side seams. Mark 8-1/4 (8-3/4, 9-1/4)" [21 (22.25, 23.5)cm] down from shoulders at armhole edges. Sew sleeves into body between markers.
- Step 8, both "Next rounds" should start with Ch 1, *sc, ch 3 . . .
- P.71, step 3, 2nd line: . . . with a slip st to right corner of bound off edge. . . .
- Change next paragraph to:
Fold Poncho in half so that the cast-on and bound-off edges are together on the right and rem edged side is at the bottom. The fold is on the left and the unworked edge is atthe top. Beg at top right corner, sew unworked edges tog, leaving . . .
- p.73, Step 2, Row 1 is clearer as [Sl 1, k1] 10 times with a single needle . . .
- p.74, Step 5, Rep Rounds 2-3 until 10 sts rem on each ndl (photo E). (40 sts)
- P.75, Grafting, Change first sentence to read "Grafting is a way to join two groups of live stitches. When you graft . . ."
- P.77, Step 1, after Row 2, Rep (Rows 1-2) until 1 st rem, working last row as p2tog. Cut yarn . . .
- Step 2, Photo B shows how the triangles are sewn together using their tails.
- P.78, Steps 3 and 4, Photos C and D both show the finished hat with earflaps and crocheted edging.
- P.79, step 2, after 2nd "next round", Rep last two rounds for circular g st . . .
- P.81, Photo A shows how to work a cable.
- Round 85: Knit to 1 st before first marker, k1, M1, slip marker, p3 . . .
- Last line of Round 85: cn, p3, sl marker, k1, M1 . . .
- P.82, Step 4: Photo D shows the Gusset sts being threaded onto a scrap piece of yarn.
- P.83, Step 6: after casting on and working ribbing, change to larger dpns.
- Round 1, at end of round, 54 sts rem.
- P.85, Step 2: After casting on and joining to work in rounds, work 3 rounds rib as follows, before working Round 1:
Rib Round: *K3, p1, rep from * around.
Rep Rib Round twice more. Change to larger dpn's.
- After round 1 is worked for the last time, change to smaller dpn's instead of larger.
- P.89, The changes in K wrap and P wrap under "Extras" is more of a clarification. It is the same change for both: . . . with RH needle, slip next st, with LH needle, pick up wrap(s) from row below . . .
- Step 2: at beginning of step, add: Note: Slip all sts as if to purl.
- P.91, Step 12: Repeat Step 7 instead of 6, of Board instructions.
- Step 13, after Note: Sew an end of each Side Panel to center stripe section . . .
- Step 14, line 4: Make and felt another Game Piece in E, but do not sew ends into a spiral shape. Attach . . .
- P.94, Step 6, Row 2: With C, purl.
- P.98, Step 1, 2nd paragraph: Follow Honeycomb Cable stitch pattern . . .
- Step 2, 1st line: . . .Work in Seed stitch pattern . . .
- P.99, Step 5, 2nd line: . . . sc around entire piece, join with a sl st, Ch 1, work another rnd of sc, join with a sl st (photo D).
- P.101, Step 2: Photo A shows casting on for the 2nd row of working buttonhole instead of binding off for the first row of it.
- 2nd Next row, WS: K20, *turn work, CO 4 sts using cable cast on, turn . . .
- P.107, Step 5, Row 82 (WS): BO 15 sts, purl until there are 26 sts on RH needle, drop yarn. . .
- Step 6, Photo F shows the book jacket laid out flat, before it is blocked with the flaps folded in.
- P.109, Step 1, last sentence: Change to larger dpns and knit one round even.
- Step 2: Knit 35 rounds . . .
- P.110, Step 3, 4th line: Knit 22 rounds . . .
- Step 4, 2nd line of right column: Turn pieces RS out, place one . . .
- P.111, Step 6, 5th line: Place BO edges of Body tog, RS facing you . . .
- P.113, Step 1, starting with the 2nd line: (photo A). Knit 1 row. For I-cord, do not turn work, but slide sts to opposite end of needle. Bring yarn around back of work to beg knitting next row.
- Delete 6th line of Step 1, ending sentence at end of 5th line.
- Step 2, Row 2: Using Cable Cast on, CO 5 sts . . .
- P.115, Monitor Cozy Mane, Step 2, Round 1: *K15, SSK, k2tog, rep . . .
- Round 3: *K14, SSK, k2tog,rep . . .
- P.116, Round 5: *K13, SSK, k2tog, rep . . .
- Step 6, first "next round" has 6 sts.
- 3rd "next round" has 12 sts.
- P.119, Step 4, Row 1, last line: times, k1, p1, k2.
- P.120, Illustration C. Counting the first chart row as the foundation, and the next row as row 1, the first and last 3 sts of Rows 4 and 8 should be knit instead of purl.